Easy Crochet Lazy Pig Amigurumi Pattern: Cute Step-by-Step Tutorial

Easy Crochet Lazy Pig Pattern: A Cute Amigurumi Tutorial

If you are looking for a delightful and quick crochet project, you have come to the right place! There is nothing quite as charming as a little amigurumi animal lounging around. This “Lazy Pig” pattern is designed to create a super cute, sleepy little piglet that is perfect for nursery decor, a desk companion, or a unique gift for a baby shower. This pig is worked in a unique, elongated style that makes it look like it is truly relaxing.

This tutorial is perfect for intermediate beginners. If you are comfortable with basic stitches like the single crochet and know how to work in the round, you are going to love making this little friend. Best of all, once you finish, you will have a plump, adorable piglet that is ready to bring a smile to anyone’s face!

Materials & Abbreviations

Before we dive into the stitches, let’s make sure you have everything you need on your crochet hook. To ensure your pig turns out the correct size (approximately 8 inches long), try to use materials similar to those listed below.

What You Will Need

  • Yarn: Medium weight (worsted) yarn. You will need approximately 1.7 oz (50g) of your main color (pink or grey) and a small amount of a contrasting color for the feet/snout.
  • Crochet Hook: 2 mm (B) hook. Using a smaller hook than suggested on your yarn label helps create the tight stitches necessary for amigurumi so the stuffing doesn’t show through.
  • Eyes: 10 mm (3/8 inch) safety eyes.
  • Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill for a plump, squishy finish.
  • Embroidery Thread: A small amount of black or dark thread to embroider the nose and facial details.
  • Tapestry Needle: For sewing the parts together and weaving in ends.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch: chain
  • sc: single crochet
  • inc: increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
  • dec: decrease (sc 2 stitches together)
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • MR: magic ring

Step-by-Step Instructions

The main body of the pig is worked as one continuous piece. We will begin at the rump (the back end) and work our way through the head and then onto the belly/body.

The Head-Body Combo

Part 1: The Rump

We begin at the bottom of the pig’s backside. Work in a continuous spiral.

  1. 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
  2. 6 inc (12)
  3. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
  4. (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
  5. (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
  6. (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
  7. 7-8. sc in each st around (36)
  8. (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
  9. 10. sc in each st around (30)
  10. (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
  11. 12. sc in each st around (24)

Part 2: The Head

Now, we transition into building the head section. Note the change in stitch height in rows 17-19 to add shape.

  1. 13. (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
  2. 14. (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
  3. 15. (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
  4. 16. (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
  5. 17. Transition row: Work 3 hdc segments: (7 sc, inc) x 3, then 3 sc segments: (7 sc, inc) x 3 (54)
  6. 18. Transition row: Work 3 hdc segments: (8 sc, inc) x 3, then 3 sc segments: (8 sc, inc) x 3 (60)
  7. 19. Transition row: Work 3 hdc segments: (9 sc, inc) x 3, then 3 sc segments: (9 sc, inc) x 3 (66)
  8. 20-25. sc in each st around (66)
  9. 26. (9 sc, dec) x 6 (60)
  10. 27. (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)
  11. 28. (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)
  12. 29. (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
  13. 30. (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
  14. 31. (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
  15. 32. (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
  16. 33. (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Part 3: The Main Body

From the head, we expand back out to create the plump belly of the pig.

  1. 34. 18 inc (36)
  2. 35. (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
  3. 36. (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
  4. 37. (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)
  5. 38. (8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)
  6. 39. (9 sc, inc) x 6 (66)
  7. 40-54. sc in each st around (66)
  8. 55. (9 sc, dec) x 6 (60)
  9. 56. (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)
  10. 57. (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)
  11. 58. (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
  12. 59. (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
  13. 60. (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
  14. 61. (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
  15. 62. (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
  16. 63. (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
  17. 64. 6 dec (6)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

The Legs (Make 4)

  1. 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
  2. 6 inc (12)
  3. (3 sc, inc) x 3 (15)
  4. 4-5. sc in each st around (15)
  5. Change to your contrasting color (for the feet):
  6. 6-11. sc in each st around (15)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

The Ears (Make 2)

  1. 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
  2. 6 inc (12)
  3. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
  4. (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
  5. (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
  6. (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
  7. (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

To give the ears a cute, ruffled look, work 3 or 4 double crochets (dc) into every stitch around the edge of the ear. Fasten off, leaving a tail.

The Tail

  1. ch 15.
  2. Starting from the 3rd chain from the hook, work 3 to 4 double crochets (dc) into each chain across.

Fasten off, leaving a tail.

Finishing

Now for the fun part—bringing your pig to life! This stage is where the character really comes out.

Stuffing and Assembly

First, stuff the head and the body sections firmly with your fiberfill. Be careful not to overstuff the narrow neck area, but make sure the belly and rump are nice and plump. Once stuffed, use your tapestry needle to sew the four legs onto the bottom of the body. Aim for a balanced placement so the pig sits comfortably on its belly.

Next, sew the ears onto the top of the head. Place the tail at the rump end. Finally, insert your 10 mm safety eyes between rows 15 and 16 (approximately). The exact placement may vary depending on how you want your pig to look, so test them out before securing them.

Face Details

Using your embroidery thread, stitch two small lines or dots for nostrils on the snout area. You can also add tiny eyelashes or a little smile if you want to give your pig even more personality!

Tips for Success

Maintain Tight Tension

When making amigurumi, the most important thing is keeping your stitches tight. If your tension is too loose, the white stuffing will peek through the holes. If you find this happening, try switching to a smaller crochet hook.

Perfecting the Increases and Decreases

For a smoother look, try using the “invisible decrease” method. Instead of inserting your hook into the next two stitches, insert it only into the front loops of the next two stitches and then complete the single crochet. This prevents unsightly gaps in your work.

Color Changes

When changing colors for the legs or the snout, work the last stitch of the old color in the final loop of the stitch, then jump into the new color on the next stitch. This creates a much cleaner transition between colors.

Happy crocheting! Your new lazy little piglet is ready to join you on your next cozy afternoon!

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